Big Bend & The Marfa Lights

In my opinion, one of the most underrated national parks is definitely Big Bend. You always hear people talk about parks such as the Grand Canyon, Yellowstone, Moab, and Yosemite, but rarely Big Bend.

Day 1

It seems like my brother Shane and I have a tradition of camping around major holidays. First, it was the Christmas camping trip to Pikes Peak; this time, the holiday was Thanksgiving, the destination was Big Bend National Park, deep in south Texas by the Rio Grande River and the Mexican border. Once again, we loaded up the Sprinter van with all the necessities and set off driving. The drive this time was not as bad as our previous camping trip drive(Texas to Colorado)—hopping on I-87 West made it a straight shot for a few hours. As you travel through Texas, the scenery changes several times.

Most people think Texas looks like Midland/Odessa, flat and full of oil drilling rigs and wind turbines; however, starting in the eastern part of the state, it’s all pine trees. Then it opens up as the pines disappear into rolling hills before transitioning to West Texas’s open, arid, flat plains. For much of the drive, there is not much to see—just wide-open flatlands that eventually become dotted with the oil drills and wind turbines.

We stopped for night one at a massive viewing/rest area off the two-lane highway. As we arrived, the sun was beginning to set, lighting up the horizon in vibrant shades of orange, red, and purple. Texas sunsets are quite incredible. We spent our first night about an hour and a half away from Big Bend in Marfa. This area is known for its mysterious nighttime light show—bright orbs that illuminate the sky—a phenomenon that attracts many tourists. We were hoping to see them during our night of camping.

Due to Texas’s dry climate and arid conditions, there was a fire ban in effect, which made setting up camp a pretty quick task. All we needed to do was park the Sprinter van in the perfect spot and crack open a few beers while watching the sunset from the roof. 

Once the sun dipped below the horizon, it was time for dinner: thinly sliced steak cooked on a camp stove and homemade Parker House rolls hit the spot before we finished a few more beers under the stars and headed to bed. Unfortunately, we didn’t see the Marfa Lights that night, but we had more evenings ahead of us.

Day 2

Time to hit the road and head to Big Bend. Breakfast tacos and coffee fueled us for our quick two-hour drive. While not long, the drive ate into our fuel reserves. Upon arriving in the town of Study Butte, we realized this might be our only chance to refuel before entering the park. Unfortunately, everyone else had the same idea—and so did the gas station owner—as prices were double what they were elsewhere in Texas. The line to fuel up was incredibly long. After waiting about 30 minutes, we were finally gassed up and ready to enter Big Bend National Park.

Driving into Big Bend is an unreal experience. For hundreds of miles, there’s nothing but desert and dry plains; then suddenly, mountains rise up out of nowhere. As you make your way deeper into the park, you notice how the landscape transforms—from cacti and desert vegetation to lush greenery with trees and plants everywhere. We navigated ourselves into Chisos Basin and sought out our campsite for that evening before heading out for a hike while there was still daylight. The Lost Mine Trail caught our eye—a moderate five-mile hike with 1,100 feet of elevation gain. The trail offered great views and plenty of room at its summit to take in the scenery; it was incredibly enjoyable and fulfilling.  Sometimes places like this are so indescribable and so overwhelming, it hits in your soul deeply and profoundly! After completing our hike, we returned to Chisos Basin to set up camp for the night.

Dinner preparations began after enjoying a few beers while watching another stunning sunset. Tonight’s menu featured steak tacos topped with cotija cheese and avocado. Temperatures dropped into the low 40s that evening; without a fire due to park restrictions, the chilly temps made for a short evening after dinner before heading to bed.

Day 3

The morning started quickly since it was Sunday and we needed to be back home by evening. After brewing some coffee to wake up our brains and bodies, we set off for our next hike—the Santa Elena Canyon Trail. However, we realized we had a problem: less than a quarter tank of gas remained. It was about 35 miles from Chisos Basin to Santa Elena Canyon Trailhead, another 20 miles from there to exit the park, and another five miles beyond that to reach a gas station. After making some calculations, we determined we had just enough fuel, so living on the “edge”, off we went.

The Santa Elena Canyon Trail is short but spectacular. Hiking along the edge of the Rio Grande is surreal; in some spots, Mexico lies only 10 feet away across the river. The trail winds deep into Santa Elena Canyon where echoes ricochet throughout its towering walls.  The drive from Santa Elena Canyon back toward the park exit is equally, breathtakingly beautiful—the rocky valleys look like scenes straight out of an old John Wayne movie or Henry Ford westerns. Because of these gorgeous views, we decided to stop briefly for breakfast tacos and coffee before embarking on our five-hour drive home.

I feel as if trips home are usually uneventful, and this one was just that: two tired brothers making their way back after an incredible adventure. Once we regained cell service, we listened to one of our favorite podcasts Kill Tony. After its two-hour episode ended, I passed out while my brother drove; later on, we switched so he could rest too. About two hours later, our journey concluded with nothing better, than homemade pasta and meatballs waiting for us at home.

Big Bend is absolutely surreal—it is underrated, yet unlike any other park I’ve visited. Mountains rise dramatically out of desert landscapes and topography is ever changing. This park deserves more than just two days to explore fully.  While indeed remote and out-of-the-way, it offers plenty of sights and hikes worthy of experiencing. Nearby towns like Terlingua boast unique Airbnbs with incredible views—or you can camp within Big Bend itself.

If you haven’t been yet, I highly recommend visiting this hidden gem.